Yoshimura RS-3 slip-ons w/ ZRS baffles

Slip-on pipes don't help much other than ego, but the stock pipes are just too ugly. While I love the sound of a good running four-stroke, my neighbors probably don't at 2:00 AM in the morning. I opted for Yosh's quietest ZRS baffles (since discontinued) to keep the sound level down to a stock level, but a little deeper. These were among the first made for the VTR so I had to Dremel the mount to get it on right, but otherwise work pretty well. The optional black canisters give it a bit different look than the more common carbon or aluminum sleeves, although they faded from heat towards the front, and Yosh does not sell that option currently..

The engine can rev a bit quicker but there is no extra power. Luckily the jetting works fine. While I could use 10-20 more hp, screwing with those big carbs is a good deterrent to mounting a full exhaust system.

Lockhart Carbon Fiber
Rear Fender

Mostly for looks, it does keep roost from the rear tire from pitting the shock. It helps replace the ugly plastic tunnel the chain rides through and allows you to remove the mudflap hanging from the airbox.  I believe California State law requires red V-Twins to carry at least one (1) piece of carbon-fiber at all times (PC 996.1, subsection c/f).  About three years so far and it still hasn't started cracking yet, but had the bolts on the chain side come out. The fender ended up laying on the tire and I was lucky it did not suck into the wheel. Keep an eye on the bolts.

Zero Gravity
Double Bubble Windscreen

The OEM clear windscreen scratches too easily so a dark screen is a popular addition. The advantage of the Double Bubble is, if you use a tankbag, there is more of a still-air pocket to tuck down into than with a lower shield. It uses the original mounting hardware but doesn't cover-up as many funky-looking brackets as the original shield does. Make sure to use a plastic polish to clean shields like these, as Windex-type cleaners with ammonia cause them to turn cloudy. Honda Spray Cleaner and Polish or Plexus work really well, and on most every other surface, also.

Turn Signals

The big front turn signals are easy to replace with the Lockhart Flush Mount IV. The big, dumbo-ear originals work but distract too much attention. I don't like lessening the nighttime visibility, but I figure if they can't see the headlight, they won't see the turn signals. The Lockharts wire into the stock plugs but replacement bulbs aren't as easy to find. It's best to get those from Lockhart.

The rear turn signals are from an Aprillia Mille. They are a lot smaller than stock, but still very bright. The problem with most aftermarket signals is they are very dim. You have to install brighter bulbs in these to get the blink rate correct, but the bulbs are easy to find (use the ones out of the stock signals). These require a bit more work to adapt to a Honda. I cut the wires off the OEM's and soldered them to these to gain the extra length and to insure the connectors are proper. They bolt directly in place of the stockers and reflect just as bright as the originals. While I was back there, I hacked down the huge original mudflap. I personally think the aftermarket eliminator kits look crude, and this still looked "factory" enough to not draw attention from Johnny Law.

Stainless Steel
brake lines

One of the best mods for the VTR is to replace the stock rubber front brake lines. G&G brand lines fit well and are covered in clear plastic to stop abrasion damage. The stiffer lines give much better feel when you first touch the brakes,and don't fade as quickly. The OEM routing has a splitter on the triple clamp, which is one more place for air to get trapped. A two-line front sends one direct line to each caliper. Make sure to cover any plastic parts before messing with brake fluid, as it will stain anything it comes in contact with. I have been using Braking brand pads. They have much stronger initial bite than the originals and do not squeal or wear the rotors. Since they were getting a bit thin, the lever would get a bit mushy (technical term, don't want to confuse you..) with only a little heat, so I recently installed EBC Sprint compound pads and they have as much bite as the Braking pads.

Since the bleeder is on top of the caliper, the easiest way to keep fluid off the pads when bleeding is to unbolt the calipers and remove the pads. Be sure it insert something in place of the pads to keep the pistons from popping out when you pump the lever. A block of wood works well, though I just but the stock junk pads back in and then clean the whole assembly with brake cleaner when done.

I bleed mine often, as I believe the excess vibration through the handlebars causes the fluid to foam quickly, and the translucent reservoir allows sunlight to decay the DOT 3. If I only ride on weekends, I flush the system about every three months. Whenever the brakes get soft enough to need to adjust the lever out from the bar, it is best to get some fresh juice in there.

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